Mysore is a town that caters towards the yoga practitioner, and especially the Ashtanga Yoga practitioner. It was Sri K Pattabhi Jois who put Mysore on the map around 1972 when the first American yoga practitioners came to study with him. It is said that in the beginning there were only up to about eight practitioners in each class, where as now hundreds come to Mysore each week to practice Ashtanga and learn about yoga. Many spend a full six months in Mysore.

There is the Sri K Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute that is now headed by Pattabhi Jois’s daughter Saraswati and her son Sharath. When Sharath is in town his classes are booked out generally and it is important to book two months ahead. The process is simple. The website allows you to download the booking form. You will need to attach two passport-sized photographs of yourself and send the form off. When you arrive in Mysore you will book in at 4.30 p.m any weekday and pay your fees. Then you will be given a time for your practice, which could be between 4.30 a.m. and 6 a.m. depending on your level of practice. The classes are large and therefore adjustments are at a minimum, but the all-seeing-eye of either Sharath or Saraswati will catch you at the exact moment you need them the most.

Sri V Sheshadri and his son Sri Harish S. head Patanjala Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga. Sheshadri himself recently built this Shala, after having taught at his home. His classes expanded exponentially as practitioners flocked to him for his very hands-on adjustments. Sheshadri also practiced with Sri Krishnamacharya, Sri B.N.S.Iyengar and Sri K Pattabhi Jois. Practicing with Sheshadri is a joy as his attention is focused on his group of practitioners. He only allows a maximum of 30 students into his classes and also teaches in the afternoon. These classes have fewer students and for those practitioners who are either beginners or ones that wish to get more attention this class is ideal. He also teaches pranayama, which is a yogic breathing sequence. Regular pujas are held on special religious days, to which he invites his students and he will present a banquet of food, continuing through to noon with chanting and offerings. There is also very basic accommodation available at the Shala.

Sthalam 8 is the third recommended Shala. Here the star teacher is Ajay Kumar, who has been practicing Ashtanga since he was 10 years old. He is also a very hands-on teacher, who insures that his practitioners reach their highest potential. His back bend classes are highly recommended for those who need extra help. There is also a café that serves breakfast and has wi-fi.

If Ashtanga is too intense for you then there is Yoga India, which offers different programs incorporating asanas, pranayama, meditation and various study groups. They also offer an intense teacher training program.

Besides the actual practice of yoga there are other yogic pursuance such as classes in Sanskrit, the Vedas, yogic science and history. The world-class Anantha Research Foundation offers these classes. You will also find that visiting experts on yogic texts hold classes while in Mysore; and generally you will find out about these through the 'yoga grapevine'.

Last, but certainly not least, is Ayurveda. This is the traditional medicine practiced throughout India and scholars believe it to go back as far as the first millennia BCE or the Iron Age. There are various medical centres in Mysore and two of which are recommended are the Dixit Health Clinic, where Dr. Kumar is the leading practitioner and the Sahyadri Ayuroushadhalayam Ayurveda Centre & Kalari, where Dr. Padmini is the resident practitioner. Both practitioners have traveled the world speaking on their Ayurvedic expertise. Be prepared though to find that the treatments are unusual and somewhat uncomfortable. The Dixit Health Clinic is quite rough and basic. There are no frills in any way and I found it hard to go back to. Yet, the treatments work. Many a sufferer has found enormous success with Dr. Kumar’s treatments. 

All in all, three weeks was hardly enough time to experience all there is and so therefore I have decided to go back for one more week at the end of December with my 16 year old son this time. I still have to visit Srirangapatna, another holy temple only about 30 minutes from Mysore. And believe it or not, Joseph tells me that his dentist is the best he has ever been too, and the costs are unbelievably low. One of his guests went for a check up and clean and it cost her all of 500 rps ($12). Here in Australia this would normally cost me $150. She said the couple who are the resident dentists were not only extremely attractive, but also amazing dentists. And, since I have had a sore tooth for a couple of months I will now brave it and make an appointment with these guys. I shall let you know how it goes in the upcoming post.

The Traveling Ashtangi