Bali-Ubud (3 of 3 Posts)
Bali’s relaxed pace of life and the deep spirituality of its mainly Hindu population underscores your yoga practice perfectly. After one week of intense yoga, fresh, healthy food and spa treatments, you cannot help but be inspired to continue on such a healthy path. My suggestion would be to stay at least two weeks. It takes a week to just relax and fall in with the relaxed pace of Ubud and the second week to thoroughly enjoy it.

Our week began on Tuesday morning at 5.30 a.m. The first of one hundred or so yoga practitioners made their way through the rice paddies to the 350m2 yoga platform at Ananda Cottages. At that time in the morning the night birds’ calls are beginning to fade into the distance and only the rustling sound of Ananda staff sweeping the narrow stone walkways are heard. The path to the yoga platform is lit and as you cross the timber bridge and turn right the yoga shala comes into sight. Some teachers choose to start later, around 7.30 a.m., but by that time it can already be too warm. Our practice for the week was scheduled for 6.30 a.m., but due to the number of people most arrived early to secure a good spot.

It is unusual to have so many yoga practitioners here, and usually smaller groups of around 20-30 visit at any one time. High profile teaches such as Sharath Rangaswamy of the Sri K Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute in Mysore will attract large numbers. His famous grandfather Pattabhi Jois would attract crowds in the thousands. Nevertheless, the smaller groups tend to be much more intimate and enjoyable. It is best to email Ananda Cottages to find out which yoga teachers from around the world have bookings coming up.

Once your morning practice is over it is worth exploring Ubud and its surroundings. There seems to be a spiritual ceremony at least once a week. To get the insight into the ceremonies it is worth hiring a guide, of whom there are many available. For recommendations on guides and drivers it is worth talking to Marni at Ananda Cottages. There are many little secret places these guides can take you, as all of them have lived in Ubud for generations and are happy to show off some of the not so well trodden paths. Marni’s husband Marde, a driver and guide, took me to some wonderful places, as my instructions to him were that I wanted to see the most spectacular views Ubud has to offer.

And if you have the need to explore alternative healing, Ubud has a legendary healer. He is usually the first port of call for the local Balanese and at a rumoured 80-90 years old has become world-famous amongst a select few. I promised not to give too much away about him, but if you wish to go through the effort of finding him ask Marni’s husband.
It is easy to make friends with the locals in Ubud and it is hard to say farewell. I think once Ubud has infused itself into your blood it is inevitable that you will return. I have been told the same goes for India, which is my next destination. I am excited to go to Mysore, the home of Ashtanga Yoga. Will India charm me, as it has done to so many intrepid travellers? I hope so!
The Traveling Ashtangi


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