Denpesar airport is not necessarily the easiest airport to get out off. First you must stand in line to pay for your visa and then you must stand in line to get your visa stamped; and then you must stand in line to get your hand luggage scanned. In my case, having picked the ‘bad’ line, it took close to an hour to get through, which is not much fun after a long flight. 

Marni from the Ananda Cottages in Ubud was there to pick me up and somehow she managed to make herself visible amongst the hundred or so drivers with name signs. She had brought along her husband and her six year old daughter who had both fallen asleep in the car, as by the time I had exited the airport it was going on 11p.m.

The trip from the airport to Ubud is about an hour and a half and that is generally because in Bali no one seems to drive over the speed of 50 km per hour. This is entirely necessary as the narrow streets are filled with motor scooters, cars and stray dogs. Many Balanese, from Ubud in particular, make their living by driving tourists around, and their cars are their most precious possession.

My accommodation at the Ananda Cottages is gorgeous, yet still simple. They have recently upgraded, Marni tells me. The upgrade seems to be nothing more than the shampoo and toothbrushes in the bathroom and the small bar fridge now contains some minibar items. The room rates have gone up accordingly, but definitely not proportionately. US$85 per night for one of the upstairs superior rooms seems a little high. But, it is so beautiful amongst the rice paddies and ever so peaceful. My body immediately relaxes as I walk through the door and take in the view and the net lined four-poster king size bed. There is air-conditioning and since I am not yet climatised turn it on and after a quick shower slip under the crisp white sheets and sleep straight through to the next morning.

I have arrived a day early, as the yoga retreat with Sharath begins on Monday. This gives me time to shop.  I had left my yoga mat at home, as it is one of those big fat ones some of us tender boned yogis use. I was told that Ubud boasts a fabulous yoga shop and so my first stop is there. After 30 minutes I walk out with two organic bamboo fibre tops, a pair of very groovy yogi pants, an eye pillow, a devotional CD and a big fat yoga mat…all for about US$150.

Tipping is another kind of conundrum that I am still dealing with. It seems ridiculous to tip someone thirty cents (3,000 Rupiah) for carrying a load of heavy luggage to the room, but it seems that is quite appropriate. There is no guiding principle such as 10%. A three course meal at a ‘fancy’ restaurant might cost US$20 (200,000 Rupiah), but I’ve been told that tipping 10% of that is far too much. Half perhaps, is more than enough. After shopping and site seeing for four hours, my driver drops me off back at the hotel. I pay him 2,000 Rupiah (US $20). I then book in for a massage, facial and body scrub for the afternoon at Bliss Spa.

Last time I was in Ubud I booked into the Spa every day. For the three treatments it will cost me US $40 (400,000 Rupiah), which is as much as some of these wonderful people earn in a week. Do I feel guilty? Ask me after the treatment….