Italy is not just a destination, it is an experience! In a conversation with a friend we were discussing how a country's culture can be interpreted through its drivers. In Italy, in particular Rome, people drive like they know where they are going; fast and furious. Funnily enough the streets of Rome are so confusing that even the locals get lost, which leaves our theory in somewhat of a conundrum. 

With this in mind I decided to hire a car to drive to Torri in Sabina, which is situated about one hour's drive north of Rome. After four hours of driving, two of those spent trying to get out of Rome, I finally made it to the In Sabina Yoga retreat. There I was eagerly welcomed by my yoga group's co-ordinator Tobias Wegenast of Pretzelyoga and the other 12 participants. Let me say, they 'had me at hello'. It was immediately obvious that this group's dynamics was special and that the upcoming week would be exciting and fun.

The next morning's yoga was scheduled for 8 a.m., a fairly decent hour, considering this was a retreat and not a yoga boot camp. I woke early and stepped outside my room to a view of an undulating vista spreading across valleys and mountains of olive trees and luscious landscape.


The yoga classes were being led by Kathy Cooper and her assistant Jacob. Kathy, who has been practicing Ashtanga for 35 years, is best know for the retreats she holds in Sri Lanka; a place I am scheduled to visit early next year.

The yoga shala at Insabina is an ancient stone building and the view from the windows is amazing. It holds about 20 people comfortably, but should there be more students, in the warmers months the outdoors yoga platform with its amazing view will hold many more.


Out of the 12 participants only four of us practiced the primary series independently. Kathy's approach is gentle and very patient, but also very specific. The afternoon workshops were particularly inspiring with Jacob holding some acrobatic classes and Kathy fine tuning our Ashtanga practice with insightful advice. This was such a wonderfully relaxed way of practicing and contrasted the sometimes rigid practice that all of us Ashtangis tend to fall into when at home.


After yoga we were served brunch by the resident chef Elide. Each meal this wonder woman produced was greeted with murmurs of awe. The vegetarian meals served were mostly straight from the kitchen garden with the menu designed around seasonal produce. Food allergies were catered for with Elide unblinkingly producing innovative little miracles consistently. Elide born and bred in Sabina tells me that the secret to extracting the finest flavours from food is to use the best virgin olive oil. The retreat produces its own oil, which is rumoured to be the finest in the region. I ask Elide if I can recreate some of her delicious meals, but she looks at me with worrying eyes and tells me that it might not be possible without Insabina's fine olive oil.

In Sabina also offers the services of yet another miracle worker, body therapist Letizia. Letizia, a yoga instructor herself, specialises in Indian massage, lymphatic massage and reflexology. It is, of course, part of my job to investigate all aspects of each yoga retreat I visit and therefore find myself 'obliged' to give her a test-run. Without a doubt, one of the best massages I have every had, if not the best! This I do not say lightly, as I do consider myself an expert at receiving massages. It seems each one of Latizia's fingers contains a brain of its own. After checking with the rest of my group about her abilities we are all in accordance.


Which brings me to the actual massage hut, or rather tree-house, which is literally suspended fully upon the trunk of a tree and overlooks the valley below. A true fairytale setting.


I asked Guilia Landor, the owner, how she managed to get such amazing people together at her retreat, as well as having picked one of the most beautiful spots on earth. She says that things just seemed to 'fall' into place, and seeing her dream come true has been the most fulfilling thing in her life. Guilia's designer touch is glimpsed all over the property. Each room is themed according to a colour. My room was the red room, with soft red throw pillows, color themed little sculptures and wall art. After one day of rain, you will find that the next sunny day, pillows and blankets will appear on lilos and hammocks. The property has many hidden nooks and crannies, set up for privacy and comfort. There is a swimming pool with coffee and tea facilities; and Guilia is preparing a new main landscape feature just downhill from the massage hut; a swimming lagoon surrounded by walnut, hazelnut trees and other native flora.


I am sad to see the week come to an end, and as I prepare to leave on Friday Guilia hands me a can of her precious olive oil. I wink at Elide letting her know that now I too can prepare her delicious recipes. Tobias already has planned next year's visit to Insabina and if time permits I would love to join him again, as Sabina offers such a vast cultural experience. There are ancient villages nearby, which I was not able to visit. Local guides will take you to places that are not on the map and will overwhelm you with their beauty. Rome is only an hour away, that is if you don't get lost like me. You could spend three months there and still not see everything this amazing city has to offer. It is worth learning basic Italian phrases, even though English is spoken everywhere, except in some of these little villages where time seems to have stopped and even  your most hapless efforts will inspire wide smiles and friendly replies.

So Ciao for now ... and India here I come!

The traveling Ashtangi