The sun goes down at around 10 p.m. on Clare Island at this time of the year, and the light is just gorgeous.



After our first night's meal, I realised that the food was going to be one of the highlights of this retreat. Some of the guests mentioned that it is why they come back again and again each year. Most of the food is grown on the farm with 90% of the food being organic and home grown. Breakfast (brunch) will be freshly baked breads, porridge, seasonal fruits and homemade sheep's milk yogurt. Dinner is imaginative and delicious and has received rave reviews from many guests. I can vouch that the food is truly awe inspiring, especially when you see Christophe or Ciara dipping outside to pick a fresh bunch of spinach or milking the sheep for the next day's batch of yogurt. Hopefully we will see a cookbook emerge in the near future. Until that time some of the recipes are offered for free on the website .





Ciara and Christophe both have studied yoga for many years. Christophe trained as an Iyengar teacher and Ciara in Ashtanga. Their approach to yoga is very particular. Ciara spends a good amount of time explaining the workings of the body and the effects of  yoga. She is simply so charming and smiley that we are all entranced by her. Christophe teaches the afternoon class and he is a little tougher on us than Ciara, which nevertheless we enjoy very much.



Many of us are astonished how much we sleep. The air is so pure and the food so fresh that our bodies go into hibernation mode. We do yoga, we eat, we take a walk then we sleep, eat and sleep some more. It is wonderful; my batteries are recharging.



There are a couple of families here with their children and we watch them race around with Ciara and Christophe's children. One of the  yoga student comments: "Free range kids!" These children have a dream upbringing, in my opinion. They are fed on organic fresh produce, homemade bread and milk straight from the sheep. For this week I am lucky to share this dream with them. It is hard work for Ciara and Christophe, as mostly they do the work by themselves. Some seasons woofers come to help and that gives them a little relief.



By day three I have slept and eaten enough to have the energy to finally go for a walk up to the lighthouse. It is at the end of the road from the yoga retreat and only takes about 15 minutes to get there. It is perched on one of the most spectacular cliffs on the island. On the way there it is worth stopping at the Ballytoughey loom .



Beth Moran has been weaving her magic there for the past 15 years and produces the most exquisite fabrics. She holds courses there frequently that a very popular.



By far the most spectacular thing to do is to take the walking track around the main part of the island. It takes about three hours and during the week you will find only yourself and perhaps the odd sheep on the track. If you have the inclination you can also take the archeological trails and visit the Heritage Centre near the harbour.





Even though this retreat offers ultimate tranquility, there is plenty to do. Some even brave the small beaches near the harbour and others like me simply enjoy abandoning themselves to pure leisure enhanced by the practice of yoga.



For some people, like myself, it is a long way to go; and who would have ever thought that somewhere off the coast of Ireland there could be such a wonderful place. If you are in dire need of recharging your batteries, or making a big change in your life, this is definitely the place to come to; and I am sure you would come back, just as I will in the not so distant future.

Ireland's tumultuous history has been the stuff of legends. From the history making battle of Clontarf in 1014 to the endless battles to achieve independence from Britain, which was finally achieved to some degree in 1921 by local heros such as Michael Collins, forever immortalized by the most handsome Liam Neeson in the movie 'Michael Collins'.  Samuel Beckett (1906-1989) playwright, author and Nobel laureate was Irish, so was George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) and Oscar Wilde (1854-1900). Not to mention, Arthur Guinness, probably better known for the dark, thick brew called Guinness beer; and, of course, the Titanic was built in Belfast.



These figures paint a most romantic picture of Ireland and I was very much looking forward to experience this country. I made sure I would have at least one full day in Dublin, so that I could explore it a little, and as 'luck would have' (the luck of the Irish?) my taxi driver from the airport, Gerry Kelly convinced me that he was the guy to take me around the next day.



I was staying on O'Connell Street, which is the main shopping street in Dublin, at the Gresham Hotel . It is an older style four star hotel, well worth staying at as it is so central and also has a lovely restaurant that serves great food (it had me at gluten free toast). Gerry picked me up the next day and drove me to all the sites worth seeing. I loved the Gothic and neo-Gothic churches in particular, which are to be found in abundance.



Throughout our 5-hour journey Gerry managed to talk the entire time, keeping me entertained and fully engaged. We finished the day off with a late lunch at The Oar House in Howth, which is only about half an hours drive outside of Dublin. Howth is considered to be 'off the beaten track' but well worth going to. It is a working fishing harbor and if you are lucky you can feed the giant seals that hang out amongst the fishing vessels.



Truth be told, one day in Dublin was plenty. After a three hour train trip, basically going from one side of Ireland to the other, I arrived in Westport , an enormously charming village on the west coast of Ireland. There I met up with the cab driver booked for me by Ciara from the Clare Island Yoga Retreat and was transported to the ferry, about 20 minutes drive from the station.



The ferry was really nothing more than what looked to me like an ex-fishing boat, but the ride was pretty smooth considering that with a little wind you would most likely have to brace yourself fairly sturdily against the side of the boat. Clare Island is situated at the entrance of Clew Bay in County Mayo. The island's population is now around 130, but increases over summer during the holiday season. There are several walks to take around the island and a three to four hour walk will take you around the main walking track. Clare Island is fringed by spectacular mountain cliffs and filled with undulating mountain terrain. If you love wide open spaces, sheep and solitude than this place is paradise.



As the evening ferry was the one suggested to be taken by yoga students, there were several of us arriving at the pier. A minivan was there to meet us and we all piled in. The yoga retreat is only a few minutes drive from the pier, or about 30 minutes walk. It truly is a spectacular landscape and I felt like leaping from the van to take photos all along the way. This is the sort of environment I love and I already felt that one week would not be enough.



To top it all off our accommodation was gorgeous. I had an upstairs room with views over the sea on one side and views into the countryside on the other. The feather comforters on the bed were like big, puffy clouds and the yoga shala and dining house were just down the road boasting the most spectacular view. I was very much looking forward to the coming week with yoga at 8.30 a.m. and
5 p.m. and of course the food, homegrown mostly and from what I had heard absolutely delicious.

Our accommodation at the Summer House presented some minor challenges. There are the typical noises that come from a hand-made timber home; the creaking of the floor boards and the deep moans of the joists in the ceiling as the house adjusts to the windy elements surrounding it. Your room mates, even though sleeping in separate areas move and make sleeping noises; and unless you were brought up by the Waltons it can take some getting used to.



The house has such a lovely homely feeling to it that those challenges are easily met after the first night. The 'typical' Finnish composting toilet took a little longer for me to get used to, and then again the view from the 'loo' through Pine trees to the sea is so spectacular that it makes up for the 'earthiness' of the lavatory.



Stefan's yoga shala has a lovely light atmosphere with the floorboards, made from recycled local timber, being soft to the touch. At nine sharp Stefan enters the room and leads us in the Ashtanga chant. Finland is experiencing a heat wave and soon we are all drenched in sweat, just as we like it. I find that sweating is one of the most cathartic elements of the yoga practice and as such is seen as one of the elements of purification of the bodymind . Stephan observes more than he interferes with our practice, letting us know that if we wish for extra pointers or adjustments to ask.





On the Wednesday I decide to take a 'Lady's day' and Stefan allows me to take photos of the class. Having received the okay from everyone during the past couple of days I tread lightly around the room. As I observe the group I find myself steeped in an enigma of feelings. On one hand the practice can be so challenging at times that I am battling to stay on the mat and other times so exhilarating that I want to just keep going. As I watch the practitioners fully immersed in their practice I feel a tug of envy and almost  put my camera down to join in.



The typical day goes by surprisingly fast, considering we are marooned on an island. There are taxi boats that will take you into Hanko, but the cost outweighs the need to touch base with the 'outside' world. In actual fact it doesn't even cross our minds to do so, as the retreat has its own cafe. The small timber building accommodates two white-clothed tables, a piano and old worldly decorations. Sami, barista extraordinaire, serves cappuccinos, lattes and Ayurvedic lattes to the sounds of Billie Holliday or 1950s Jazz classics. For those starved of sweet things, healthy cakes and biscuits are available as well. Within the first few days the 'cafe culture' quickly awakens amongst our group and the daily latte in the afternoon becomes habit, following along with Sri K Pattabhi Jois's tongue-in-cheek saying "No coffee, no prana".





Then at 3.30 pm we practice Yin Yoga and pranayama. Then dinner is ready at 6.30 pm and the day comes to an end. The midnight sun gently illuminates our surroundings with a soft light until 10.30-11 pm when finally most of us go to sleep.



I must agree with Stefan, one week is not enough in this wonderful place. Many come for several weeks and return year after year. After 16 years Stefan keeps improving on the retreat without overdoing it. More accommodation is planned for the future and Stefan's vision is of a place that incorporates old world charm with the stunning natural environment. I believe he has achieved most of that already as well as integrating yogic philosophy and practices into the curriculum. In the end the things I loved the most about the retreat were also my biggest challenges, namely sharing my living space, Karma yoga and, believe it or not, the 'loo with a view'.

After leaving the busy-ness of Istanbul it is almost a culture shock to arrive in Helsinki. There is virtually no traffic on the roads and the architecture towards the main part of town is bleak, with rectangular rendered blocks of apartments lining the streets. Once we get closer to the harbour the architecture changes and becomes a little more ornate with hints of art deco. As we arrive at the Hotel Kongressikoti I literally only see three people on the vast cobblestone streets. The hotel was recommended by Stefan from the yoga center and it is a simple hotel, clean and friendly. The hotel is on the 5th floor of one of those art deco-ish buildings with a rickety old elevator where you have to slide back the springloaded screen to get in and out. There is wi-fi and a kitchen as well as shared bathrooms and shower. It is cheap in contrast to the other hotels, yet I had a view over the rooftops and it is only a few steps from the harbour.  I made my way down to the Esplanade and suddenly was surrounded by people. With 22 hours of sunlight it is easy to forget what time it is and most restaurants will serve dinner quite late. I decided to eat at a Finnish restaurant called Aino . The menu boasted raindeer fillets and hoping Santa wasn't watching decided to order them. The waitress assured me that the deer I was about to consume was definitely not employed by the old man and it turned out to be delicious.

The next day I made it to the train station with plenty of time to spare only to find out that the train to Hanko had been cancelled. I called Stefan Engstrom from The Midnight Sun Ashtanga Yoga Retreat and took another train to Karjaa which is the station where I would have had to change onto the Hanko train. After a one hour train ride I arrived at Karjaa and Stefan was there to pick me up.



Stefan Engstrom is the 5th generation of Engstroms to have his home on Kadermo and the first to turn it into a yoga retreat 16 years ago. The island is remote, with no cars or shops or roads for that matter. This is an all-natural environment with dramatic coast lines and lies just east of Hanko on the southwest tip of Finland. To get to the island Stefan uses the fishing boat his father made.



I arrived at the small timber boat pier, where Stefan anchors his boat, and saw that several other yogis had arrived before me. As soon as we set off across the smooth waters of the Baltic Sea the smile on everyone's face is unmistakable. It is difficult not to feel excited and emotional at the same time. This is a place so peaceful and beautiful it takes our breath away.





Upon arrival we are taken to our accommodation. Six of us are sharing the Summer House which is perched on top of the granite rocks that hug the coastline of Kadermo. The view is spectacular and we find that during our stay we have brunch and dinner on those rocks rather than inside the house so that we can marvel at the view.





On the first evening Stefan meets with the group to explain the schedule. We are able to use the yoga room before 9 a.m at which time he will begin supervising self-practice. In the afternoons we have yin yoga and pranayama. It turns out to be a perfect combination for me. The yin yoga sequence was especially designed by Stefan to enhance the Ashtanga practice and pranayama leaves us with a clear and focused mind. On other weeks Stefan also teaches in the afternoons and in a three week course he will take you through the anatomy of yoga, breathing and energy techniques. If you stay longer Stefan will also discount your stay.



This is already one of the most reasonable yoga retreats I have been to with very little reciprocal tasks. Sure sharing a house can be a challenge to some, but generally you are sharing with like minded yogis who are all there to experience the unique environment as well as improving on their yoga and health. I found that by Wednesday I felt already part of a family and believe I made friends for life with some. One of the most controversial tasks is the dish washing schedule. Each person will have to wash the dishes with a buddy at least once, and considering I refuse to do the dishes at home, because what is a dishwasher for anyway, I was challenged by this. Turns out that my dish washing buddies ended up being really interesting people and had it not been for the half hour spent performing this task I would not have gotten to know them as well as I did.



Then on Fridays there is 'Karma Yoga'. Again this is a task most challenging to some, who believe that they didn't come to Kadermo to clean. Yet cleaning our own accommodation took only one hour out of our lives and as Stefan says, people tend to respect their environment more when they know they will have to clean it up in the end. Tell that to my 17-year old! In the end we were all mighty proud of having fluffed and puffed every cushion and wiped every surface, keeping in mind that perhaps some good karma point were coming our way.

One of my major loves about Istanbul are the markets. That is the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar.



The Spice Market or Egyptian Market as it is also known, was built in 1664 offering herbal remedies, teas, spices as well as artifacts. There are also some extrodinary delis that sell some of the finest cheeses and meats available in Istanbul. The Spice Markets are surrounded by street bazaars selling textiles and other wholesale goods. I suggest you get involved with the buzz of the place, don't feel pressured by the vendors, but let them have their fun and play along with their game. They simply love it and you can tell they definitely love what they are doing.



The Grand Bazaar was first constructed in 1461. It takes up a surface of 30.7 hectares, 61 streets, 10 wells, 4 fountains, 2 mosques and over 3 thousand shops. You almost need a GPS to find your way through it, but luckily maps do exists. www.kapalicarsi.org.tr/eng/index.asp
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At the Spice Markets I was reeled in by Mustafa who mans a spice, tea and turkish delight stall. He sat me down and immediately plied me with Apple Tea. This concoction comes in two types, the instant sweet version and the pure dried apple version. I don't recommend the instant stuff, as it taste far too sweet. Whilst telling me about all the teas I simply must have, Mustafa also managed to question me about my life. He weadled out of me that I have a 17 year old son, and immediately fained shock, because I couldn't possible be more than 25 or 27 years old. Hmmm this has happened several times now...first the concierge, then a taxi driver and now Mustafa. Could I trust what Mustafa was saying, considering I was on the wrong side of 45? Judge for yourself. Is this not a face you could trust?



Here I must commendate the Turkish men, they generally are polite, will offer seats on the tram and compliment you on your dress. They are general not forward like the Italians; they won't oggle or whistle but certainly at the markets they will ask where you are from and try and induce you to purchase their wares. Nevertheless they are happy to flirt, even if there is no chance of a sale. It is not possible to do the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar in one day. There is far too much to see and buy.



Since I am a bit of a 'foodie' I decided to take a cooking class in classic Turkish cuisine and joined the 'Cooking Alaturka ' class. Eveline Zoutendijk holds twice daily classes recreating a 5-course menu consisting of Ottoman and regional specialities. There were ten of us and to my surprise three from Australia. We Ozzies do get around!  The food was incredibly good and amazingly simple to make. She even managed to accommodate the vegetarian and gluten intolerant guests. Not to mention that her chef just happens to be quite handsome as well as charming.



When it comes to food Istanbul has some fantastic restaurants and unusual cuisine to offer. I ate at Asitane which is famous for its original Ottoman cuisine with dishes ranging back to the 15th century. The food was amazing and I sampled their almond soup and honey and apricot chicken. Delicious!



The other restaurant I want to mention became quickly my favourite and was just around the corner from Yogasala.



Kantin offers traditional Turkish cuisine with a modern twist. The emphasis is on organic and clean healthy food. Their baked eggplant was unbelievable and their desserts almost worth traveling the world for.



Of course there are many other places to eat that are not as fancy as Asitane and Kantin. Look out for the small holes in the wall where the locals eat. There you can get a really simple meal that is fresh and delicious and very cheap.

Yogasala opened its doors 10 years ago as the first yoga studio in Istanbul. Turks even now consider yoga as an advanced form of stretching, but this is changing. Yogasala now has two locations in Istanbul and one in Ankara. As well as early morning Ashtanga classes there are other forms of yoga being taught. Can and Seyda Malta have given up their business careers to devote themselves full time to yoga. Their feeling is that if they can get the locals through the door eventually they will embrace the philosophy of yoga. The intention is “to create a place and community where people can come practice yoga, breathe and be at home in their bodies".



The studio in Nisantisi is a lovely space, with two yoga practice rooms that are light and airy. Gail Couzins teaches Ashtanga at Yogasala. She began Astanga in 1999 in Mysore with Sri K Pattabhi Jois and his grandson Sharath and continued to practice with them and with Hamish Hendry before assisting Hamish and beginning teaching in London. In Mysore she fell in love with the practice and found that the daily practice and the rhythm of the traditional sequencing and breath resonated with her. She says that surrendering, facing yourself each new day on the mat and not being able to avoid the bits you don't like are a challenge and it is what makes the practice worthwhile. She has set up her permanent home in Istanbul after having taught as a volunteer Ashtanga teacher on a wonderful project call Project Air. ” Project Air is a not-for-profit organization that has implemented a unique program to help allay some of the trauma and mental health issues left in the wake of the 1994 Rwandan Genocide. Focusing on HIV+ women and their children, Project Air uses yoga to help genocide rape survivors manage the devastating effects of catastrophic sexual violence and HIV/AIDS".



After two weeks off from practice I just about faint in a pool of my own sweat and swear, as usual, to never every take time off again. Gail has a wonderful gentle way of adjusting and as I come to the end of my practice and get through my first set of backbends I complain to her, as I had heard to so many yogis complain, that I found the backbends the hardest and that I thought it was due to all the forward bends in the primary series. She said that she had thought so too until David Swenson, who had recently taught a workshop at the Nisantisi sala mentioned that if we did our upward dog properly, with shoulders back, the primary series actually contains more backbends than the second series. Another one of those 'aha' moments!



After returning back at the hotel from yoga I went downstairs to confer with my new bestest Turkish friend Yavuz Tuncer.... the concierge at Gallery Residence . I am super impressed with this place. I have a lovely room that is more like a one bedroom apartment. Contemporary decor, kitchen, queen sized bed, bathroom etc. They have three concierges here as they work 8 hour shifts each, but Yavuz is probably the best I have ever encountered. He literally bends over backwards to achieve anything you want him to. He gets the best cabbies, books restaurants, and lined me up with a tour guide who could get me into a small order of Dervishes, the Halveti Jerrahi , who rarely perform for tourists. I knew very little about the spiritual side of Turkey, especially the mystical practices of the Whirling Dervishes . The Halveti Jerrahi order has many thousands of members all over the world and is highly active in many relief efforts such as donating clothing, food, medicine and money towards the flood victims of Bangladesh, Afghani refugees and the genocide victims of Bosnia and Kosova. The Halveti Jerrahi are a cultural, educational, and social relief organization made up of Muslims from diverse professional, ethnic, and national backgrounds. The Jerrahi order has branches in Turkey, New York, California, Illinois, and Seattle, Bosnia, Germany, Greece, Italy, France, England, Spain, Canada, Mexico, Argentina, Chile and Brazil.



This was certainly an experience of a special kind. There were ten of us being bused to the Mosque that lies off the beaten path in one of the suburbs of Istanbul. The women were shepherded upstairs to join with the sufi women and the men went to another area. It amazes me that something as innocuous as a head scarf can seem so extrinsic to us. I wore a head scarf and loved it. No need to fuss with my less than luxuriant locks, and in this heat it keeps it from sticking to my face. The scarf (hijabi) has a very significant meaning to the Islam women. Of course it provides a sense of modesty to the wearer, but also has a metaphysical meaning if we take one of the original translations of the hijab, the 'veil' that which separates man from god, into account. The hijab has become a political symbol of the 21st century and it mystifies Western society.

The group of women I have come up the stairs with have moved on to another room, while I stay behind trying to catch the eye of someone that might be in charge, so that I can ask a few questions about their order. I peak around the corner to find a table of ladies eating their dinner. They range from early twenties to late eighties and some of the elder ones wave me in. A chair is moved in front of a plate for me and I am given soup and a meat stew. The food is simple and good. Suddenly the elder lady to my right begins to sing a few notes from a prayer and the women lift their hands palms up in a gesture of receiving. They join in and than just as sudden they stop and get on with finishing their meals.



Finally we gather behind the wooden lattice divide overlooking the prayer room in which the men have gathered to perform their prayer rituals (zikr). There must have been at least 50 men in the room bearing white kippahs, sitting on the floor and reciting scripture. The prayers become more and more passionate with the men's bodies swaying and rocking in time. Zikr is literally translated as "an Islamic prayer whereby a phrase or expression of praise is repeated continually", but is also considered a form of meditation, a fervent praise of all the wondrous things the world has to offer through the greatness of Allah (God). Soon I am also caught up in the trance like quality of the singing and the hours fly past. Then seven black robed men enter the space below. They are wearing tall camel hair, conical shaped hats and below the black robes voluminous white gowns.



"The tall felt hat or sikke represents the tombstone or the death of ego. The long, weighted dress or tennure represents the Islamic burial shroud or our inner consciousness.  The dark cloak or hirka, worn at the beginning and close of the ceremony, personifies the tomb itself or our outer consciousness. Under the cloak is a white jacket, called a dasta gul, which poetically translates as a bouquet of roses. The left lapel is loose, while the right is secured to a wide black belt, also known as the alif-lamed. Alif is the first letter in the Arabic alphabet. Most dervishes wear thin, ankle-high leather mosque slippers called mest. Each action in the ritual focuses on striving to attain a perfect form through humility. Everything is kissed, from the different articles of clothing as the dervish puts them on and even the floor. These devotional actions and symbolic items assist in preparing the dervish for liminal states of consciousness.  They are acts of humility".  
(http://mirahunter.com/historyofwhirling.html )



The men go through a process of ritual bowing and then discard their black robes. They begin to spin and, it seems float, slowly circling the floor. Their feet do not make a sound as they whirl anti-clock wise. Arms are held high above the head, one palm up receiving divine blessings and the other hand palm down dispersing the blessings. The men's faces are serene, their bodies becoming a pure vessel and channel for the spiritual gifts bestowed by Allah (God). The sufi men repeat their mantras (zikr) as the dervishes whirl elegantly across the floor. 'They empty their hearts of all but the thought of God and whirl in the ecstatic movement of His breath' (http://www.cassiopaea.org/cass/dervish.htm ). It is absolutely hypnotic watching the whirling men, their white gowns gliding like thick cream around their ankles. Even from the first whirl their faces take on an expression that is something beyond extacy, something much less turbulent and more so peaceful.

As my group gathers back together we are all awestruck, certainly an experience we won't forget.

Why come to Istanbul to practice yoga, you might ask? Well there are several reasons, which do not immediately spring to mind as your plane hits the tarmac in Istanbul.



The airport seems desolate in contrast to the actual old city of Istanbul, which is vibrant and colorful. Istanbul is an ancient city where the traditional lifestyle happily coexists with the modern. This is a city with history so old and glamorous that it still can be felt as you walk through the cobblestone streets of the old city. The mosques and the palaces, such as the Topkapi Palace are monumental icons of the bygone eras, their architecture so intricate and beautiful, easily rivaling anything even nature could wish to produce. It is worth visiting the crown jewels at the palace, but beware as even the heart of the most devout nun could be turned to envy. If you have never seen an 86 carat diamond, this is where you will see one. There are so many beautiful places to see that I it could take you the best part of a year to visit them.



Apart from the historical scene there is a massive cultural side to Istanbul. The museums and art galleries show the best the world has to offer. The top of the music scene also frequent this place and there is guaranteed to be a world class act on when you visit. There are two magazines that will tell you what is on; one is called Where Magazine and should be available at your hotel and the other is Time Out Istanbul . It is worth saving your pennies as the shopping is fantastic; be it antique Ottoman treasures or designer clothing, but don't expect to find much yoga gear.



These are certainly some reasons why one might want to come to Istanbul but there is one reason above all why I come to practice yoga in Istanbul...the Hammam (Turkish bath) !



After arriving at my hotel I went straight to one of the hammams the concierge recommended. Cagaloglu Hammam is included in "The 1000 Places You Must See Before You Die " and is over 300 years old. Many famous personalities have used the facilities including Florence Nightingale and even Steve Erving. When you arrive at Cagaloglu Hammam you are given a towel called a pestemal that just covers you from breast to bottom. You are asked to take off all your clothes, which you stash in a locked booth. Then you enter the hammam, which is a domed structure with light streaming through the holes in the ceiling. The floor and center platform are marble and heated. The room is steamy and quite warm.



You then lie down on the central marble platform, where, just like a dumpling, you steam away for about 15-20 minutes. It gets quite warm and when you can't bear it any longer you douse yourself with cold water from one of the many ornate water faucets suspended over marble sinks. Then your scrubbing lady will come and begin to scrub you with a kese (rough silk mitten). These 'scrubbers' have scrubbed many a women and would put a machine sander to shame. I was peeled like an onion with at least three layers of skin rubbed off. Naturally it is old skin, but one wonders what would happen if you went a few too many days in a row.



Then when she has slapped you on the bottom, you turn over for her to do the other side. Once the backside has also been exfoliated you are taken by the hand and guided to the sink, where she will rinse you with warm water. Again you lie down on the marble platform and then you are doused in generous amounts of fragrant oil. It's not unlike being basted and then being tenderized, as she kneads you like a loaf of bread. Again a slap on the bottom and you turn over. Then off to the sink again for another dousing and back to the platform. Now you are scrubbed again with lashings of light bubbly soap and a loosely woven rag. There isn't a nook or a cranny that doesn't get cleaned. It feels a bit like, what I imagine, bathing in champagne would feel like, while eating chocolate (I don't know where the chocolate comes in, but it's what went through my mind).

By this time the heat, the oil and the massaging begins to take affect on you. Your body becomes very limp, at the complete mercy of this very matter of fact woman, who somehow begins to remind me of my grandmother and the way she used to bathe me when I was a small child. Your mind has also gone limp, as you are now no more than a child in a way. You don't have to worry about cleaning behind your ears, in between your toes or even your bottom. You don't even have to make any decision, such as when to lift an arm or when to turn over. Then the final trip to the sink for a rinse and a shampoo, which again includes some massaging. Then the hammam lady manages to get you off your 'derriere' and leads you like some lobotomized loony out of the hammam to a towel rack, where she tenderly dries you.  You somehow mumble thank you and are left alone to work out how to get dressed.

Surely this thorough body treatment will have prepared me for my first day's practice tomorrow at Yogasala , after two weeks off. So after I have rebuttoned my shirt several times and managed to tie my shoes, I float down the cobblestone street towards the tram station. The easiest, cheapest and most efficient way to get around is by tram or metro. The tram basically goes from one end of town to the other, stopping at all the important sites and it only costs 1.5 TRL.

The last trip to Koh Phangan was absolutely amazing and I felt truly blessed to have had the experience, as short as it was. Now I have had two months back at home settling back into the routine of sorting out my 17-year old son's school life and finishing Sandhya's cookbook 'Mysore Style Cooking '. It is off to the printers now with the blessings and hopes of some very excited Indian people and of course yogis as well.



Now I have three weeks of school holidays (my son's) coming up and the freedom to go to several yoga retreats to continue on this journey of completing my next upcoming book 'The World's Best Yoga Centers'. The places I have chosen to go to have all been recommended to me by yoga practitioners whom I have met on my journey so far.



The first place I will be visiting is Istanbul. I have actually been there before but did not practice yoga there and only spent two days 'doing the sites'. One fifth of Turkey's population lives in Istanbul which houses 12 million people. The place is truly the New York of the middle east. It is a vibrant city, where every so often the sound of prayers voiced over loudspeakers waft over the city and infuses every nook and cranny. Istanbul originally known as Byzantium and then Constantinople started off as a small roman town in the first century A.D. and is now the largest city in Turkey and the fourth largest in the world. It is situated along the Bospherus Strait which divides the city into two continents, European and Asian. Istanbul is the cultural, economical and financial center of Turkey with so much to see and do that spending a year there would not suffice. I am looking forward to going to the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Markets, as well as taking a trip down the Bospherous and visit some of the villages along the way. I will be practicing yoga at Yogasala Istanbul where they teach Ashtanga, Iyengar, Vinyasa and Hatha Yoga. Many world renowned teachers are now going to Istanbul to hold workshops.



Then I will be heading to Finland and to a place I have been trying to get to for a couple of years, the Midnight Sun Yoga Retreat. I have heard a great deal about Stefan Engstrom and his retreat, which is on the Island of Kadermo one of thousands of islands and skerries of different sizes around the Finnish coast. Some of these islands are entirely untouched. Judging by Stefan's description it sounds incredible "Where else can one listen to such silence, broken only by the sound of an owl hooting in the night, a woodpecker hacking away at a pine tree, seagulls squalling, a deer crying in the morning mist?"



After that I will be joining a yoga workshop yet on another island, Clare Island. The Clare Island Yoga Retreat Center holds retreats from June to October on various kinds of yoga. This week I will be doing something a little different to my usual Ashtanga practice. Clare Island lies off the coast of Ireland and has a population of 140. I'm looking forward to getting to know them.



Well, I am very excited about this trip. I'm looking forward to eating European food and exploring this part of the world. These three places certainly won't be the only European centers I will be visiting, but this is all I have time for this July. Then in August I will be going back to Mysore to launch Sandhya's book and then come end September I will be back in Europe to continue exploring what other exciting yoga centers are available for the intrepid yogi traveler.

Last Saturday Joseph, my dear friend from Mysore India, passed away suddenly and to the shock of many loving friends and family. He suffered a fatal heart attack whilst in Cambodia on a visa trip from India.



Joseph was fond of explaining that 17 years ago he came to Mysore to study yoga with Ashtanga Guru Sri K Pattabhi Jois for one month and, well the rest is history. Which meant that he became Pattabhi Jois's right hand man for many years organizing all of the Guru's travels. He was there with him on September 11 in New York and would organize the many intricate details of traveling with the Jois family. He was much loved and admired by many people and especially by those who were lucky enough to have stayed with him at 'Chez Mr. Joseph's'. I have written about his wonderful hospitality extensively in past blogs and would like to tell my story of how I got to be so lucky as to get to know him.

My first trip to India was fraught with anxiety. Would I survive the less than hygienic conditions, as according to the horror stories of many a traveler these could cause all sorts of digestive problems. Would I be safe and could I trust anyone? After extensive research I finally decided that I would stay at a place that sounded, according to the website, very safe and trustworthy. In my minds eye I presumed Mr. Joseph to be some elderly Indian gentleman who had made it his business to accommodate befuddled Western yogis. So with this in mind Mr. Joseph and I corresponded over several weeks with him offering me several options of accommodation, including the 'Penthouse' suite. I jumped at the chance of having the best room in the house and Mr. Joseph assured me that I would feel like a princess once ensconced in my very own little tower. To top this a driver would also be at the airport to drive me the five hours it would take to get to Mysore and he would announce himself with a placard that would say "Princess Sandra". Upon hearing this my husband rolled his eyes saying "What a con artist, typical Indian!"

Lo and behold at the airport there was Murthy waving the "Princess Sandra" sign in the air. I arrived at Gokulam at 3 a.m. and Joseph was up...and to my surprise a rather dashing and tall yank.  He had me at "Hey there babe" and we both chatted until the sun came up. The next day I found out that I had moved Joseph out of his very own room, as usually no-one takes the Penthouse suit.

Joseph and I clicked, and I am sure many people have had that experience with him. It made you an instant family. In the three weeks I spent in Mysore the first time, he drove me on the back of his Enfield absolutely everywhere. I experienced Mysore the Joseph way. That is where to buy the best Papaya, how to get a phone number, where to swim, where to eat, how to haggle, how to get 'anything' done in Mysore. I listened to his many hilarious stories about India and Guruji. It is because of him I came back twice again within the very same year. He literally became my anchor in Mysore and the idea of going there and not finding him waiting is.... I have no words for how it feels. I know that when someone passes over their physical presence is gone, but for sometime some physicality of them is still present. Their mail keeps coming for a little while and even the phone might still ring. The house in Gokulam is still there, but eventually it will not be the house that Mr. Joseph lived in. I know in our minds and hearts he will live on and yet even that might fade a little over time. All I can say is that this is one man I would invite to my dinner party in heaven and that if anything I am looking forward to that day.

Namaste Joseph

Sandra Ramacher

Kirsten Berg and Mitchell Gold have been teaching Ashtanga on Why Nam a remote cove on Koh Phangan since 2002 and it is easy to see why they go back each year. One could not find a more idillic location. The only access to this spot of paradise is via long-boat from Haad Rien and as you glide along the turquoise colored water along the stunning coastline you thank your gods you are alive. This is about as remote from big city stress as you can get.





There is only one set of bungalows available for accommodation along Why Nam and the owners will not take bookings and therefore you will just have to turn up and see if they have any available. Just before Why Nam beach is Hadd Tien. There you can either book accommodation at The Sanctuary or Beam Bungalows or take your luck with the Haad Tien Restaurant that also offers good and reasonable accommodation.



From Haad Tien it is a five minute walk through the swaying coconut trees to get to Why Nam and the yoga platform. The platform has been built jutting over the southern corner of Why Nam beach catching the cool ocean breeze. The yoga classes begin at 9 a.m. as at this stage the sun has passed over to give the platform shade. Usually I feel like half my day is already over by 9 a.m., but my practice became one of the most energetic I have ever had. All those wonderful negative ions skipping off the ocean where powering me on and I found this to be the case each day.



Kirsten and Mitchell are gentle and thoughtful teachers, making sure they get to know your practice straight away so that they are fully engaged. Surprisingly there were about 15 practitioners while I was there, and I say surprisingly because you wonder where they sprang from. It is so quite and peaceful and like hermit crabs the yogis emerge at practice time and then slip off again to pursue their own personal spiritual quests. Occasionally you see them in one of the wonderful restaurants sipping on a coconut or swimming in the warm clear waters of the ocean, but generally everyone kind of dissolves into the environment.



This is a place where you can fully immerse yourself into the natural environment, chill out, do you practice in the morning, eat great healthy food, swim and if you want even party in Haad Rien just a long-boat ride away. I met several 'hermits' who had literally arrived and just haven't left, some who have been there 8 months and some 17 years. The yogic spirit is felt literally on every corner and I will be back in the not so distant future.